Finding cool and unusual things to do in Astoria, Oregon wasn’t the hard part of our journey. It was compressing them into the space of a morning that proved impossible.
It’s a Tight Itinerary, but We Decide to Head up the Coast
We recently made the decision to head out on a mini road trip to Astoria, Oregon. The plan was simple. We’d strike out from Corvallis early on a Saturday morning before the sun was fully up, stop for breakfast with some friends in Newport, and then drive up the coast on Highway 101.
It was a tight itinerary for certain, but we figured we could explore some of the top sites on our “things to do in Astoria list” on Saturday afternoon, before spending the night in Seaside. Then, in the morning, we’d hit the remainder of the sites before venturing over to Canon Beach and arriving at Hug Point at the perfect point of low tide.
Well, suffice it to say, things rarely go as planned. Google maps predicted that the 133-mile drive up the Oregon coast on Highway 101 should take about three hours, give or take a minute.
Despite sticking to the route, with the exception of a quick jaunt out to Cape Meares, the journey took most of the day. In fact, we weren’t checking into our pup-friendly digs, the Seaside Inn in Seaside, until around 4:00.
We were now seriously behind schedule, so had to re-evaluate our options. If we headed out right away, we could catch the wreck of the Peter Iredale before sunset and possibly even portions of Fort Stevens.
The weather and Toyota lovers had other plans.
Reordering Our “Things to Do in Astoria” Priorities
We arrived at Fort Stevens just as a nasty bank of thunderous clouds was taking aim at us from off the coast, but this is Oregon. One expects to encounter showers in February, so we were prepared for a little drizzle.
As we navigated our way through Fort Stevens State Park on the Peter Iredale road, we noticed that the clouds were growing darker. Nasty spits of rain were blowing in, and the daylight was turning a curious shade of green-gray.
I could see in my mind all of the pictures I’d witnessed of the Peter Iredale at sunset—beautiful tones of amber and red striking the perfect balance with the ocean waves and sand and highlighting the rusted spires of the ship’s great bones. This was not to be for us. As we reached the parking area at the end of the road, the vicious clouds made full inroads. Ever optimistic, I pointed out that a splendid photo op had not been lost. Boiling storm clouds above an equally as vicious sea would paint a poignant photograph and highlight the sad plight of the once-great ship.
The wreck of the Peter Iredale is, after all, an example of how weather, tides and fog combine to bring even the greatest to ruin. Due to vicious weather, the four-masted schooner missed the mouth of the Columbia River by only 4 miles, tossed to the shore by waves and tide and abandoned for decades to come.
Battling Snow and Forerunners on the Oregon Coast
Despite the solitary nature of the photos that I’d seen, I never expected a solo excursion when exploring the Peter Iredale. It is one of the most visited sites on the Oregon coast, which is why it was on our list of things to do in Astoria.
However, I didn’t expect to share the scene in quite the way that we did.
Despite a thunderous dark sky, a cold driving wind and even the start of snow, a crowd had gathered on the small sand cliff above the beach. We thought they were admiring the view of the Iredale until we navigated our way down to the water.
Parked in front of the wreckage was a line of twenty Toyota trucks and Forerunners. They had blocked the ship for several yards in either direction as they posed for the ultimate in brochure-worthy photo ops.
As the tide rolled in, reaching ever closer to the tires resting on the sand, one intrepid Toyota fan was even attempting to climb the ship’s great bow to hang a banner. I couldn’t tell you what it said as the wind, protesting his trespass on the mighty ship, repeatedly ripped the banner from his hands.
While we watched and tried to frame a shot of the wreckage that would not include a line of soon-to-be-drowned Toyotas, a dog on the sand bank made his way down to say hi to Kimber, S2G’s Oregon mascot.
“Do you know what’s going on here?” asked a nice young man who came to retrieve the dog.
“Not a clue,” I answered.
He shook his head in agitated bewilderment, saying something that was drowned out by a sudden gust of wind and a crashing wave as the tide made an unprecedented swipe at our feet. By this point, the snow was starting to sting, the wind was biting cold and the Toyota aficionados were no closer to hanging their banner. Given the overall poor conditions for exploring the wreck, we abandoned the idea and returned to the warmth and dryness of the car.
Disappointed and Hungry, We Find New Things to Do in Astoria
Disappointed by the downturns of the day, it seemed a good idea to seek sustenance. Since breakfast, we’d eaten nothing save our WinCo bounty of Jelly Bellies, pistachio nuts and trail mix (favorite mother daughter road trip snacks). With the cold and blustery conditions inspiring thoughts of warm soup and hearty food, we headed toward downtown Astoria.
From Fort Stevens State Park, we navigated back to Highway 101 and continued north. It wasn’t long before the road turned to the east in preparation for its journey along the Columbia River, and the New Youngs Bay Bridge transported us safely into the heart of Astoria.
The trip itself helped to buoy our spirits. Even if we hadn’t accomplished even half of the scheduled items on our “things to do in Astoria” list, we were actually seeing Astoria. If you’ve never been here, expect an eclectic mix of old frontier town and port city charm. A trip down Commercial Street gave us plenty of shopping and dining options in historical western buildings, but we opted for the Baked Alaska on the Astoria Riverwalk. It’s a little tricky to find, but the atmosphere was warm and inviting and each table had a view of the river.
We watched large ships entering the Columbia and the excursions of the pilot ships while we enjoyed warm soup, crispy bread, fried seafood and charred tuna. Dessert, though not planned, proved to be irresistible. The thick and creamy cheesecake served in a mug was perfect for my son-in-law who prefers not to eat the crust, and the Crème Brulee was equally as satisfying.
Our Stay at the River Inn at Seaside
While you’ll find many things to do in Astoria and many places to stay, we opted to spend the night a little south in Seaside. This decision was meant to accommodate our intent to travel down the coast after accomplishing a full itinerary of attractions, but it also suited our spontaneous Seconds to Go nature.
We planned this trip on a Friday night before Presidents Day Weekend. A large youth basketball tournament and other travelers taking advantage of the long weekend had planned ahead, so many accommodations closer to Astoria were booked.
While we had hopes of securing ocean front, pet-friendly accommodations at the Hallmark Resort and Spa at Cannon Beach or the Inn at Cannon Beach, we found more last-minute vacancies in Seaside.
We booked 2 King-bed Riverview rooms at the River Inn at Seaside and enjoyed clean, new accommodations at a great rate. Best of all-they were pup friendly. Kimber enjoyed her own gift pack, a food and water bowl and a safe river-view balcony where she could watch the birds.
I enjoyed the balcony as well. Arising early, I snapped a few shots of the snow-covered mountains in the distance just as the sun began to rise. Then, after a quick continental breakfast, we were on the road again, tackling our morning in Astoria itinerary.
Historical Things to Do in Astoria
When looking for things to do in Astoria, you can find many historical sites. While our original itinerary had called for crossing the river into Washington to visit Fort Columbia and tracing the trail of Lewis and Clark, time and common sense had us quickly whittling down our schedule. Fort Stevens had topped our list of things to do in Oregon, so we started our morning there.
Fort Stevens began its defense of the Columbia River mouth in 1863 during the Civil War. It took on new life during the great World Wars, before retiring into obscurity.
Entering through the gates shortly after the park opened was a pleasant experience. Elk herds who call the park home were breakfasting in the drifting fog. We explored the barracks foundations with their quiet companionship, but as we ventured toward the gun turrets, they quickly sought shelter in the fog closer to the coast. Our early arrival made it possible to descend into the buildings in off-season solitude, but it also meant going about it a bit blindly. There are few information plaques in the park, so we spent a lot of time researching history on our phones and making guesses as to the function for each building.
In the summer, guided tours are offered of the bunkers by the Friends of Fort Stevens, but since we’d decided to do Astoria in the middle of February, we were limited to self-touring.
As we were finishing our exploration and heading back to the car to warm up, volunteers arrived to open the museum. Wanting more information, we spent about a half hour with the museum curators. They were a little slow to start talking, but once we had engaged them with questions, were willing to open up. Upon request, they showed old photos of the fort from the days of its operation as well as some historical tid-bits, so it was well worth the stop.
We Go Back to the Peter Iredale
It was at this point that sun finally burnt off the clouds, and the Peter Iredale exerted its irresistible pull once again. The remains are within the Fort Stevens park, making it an easy side-excursion. This time, we weren’t disappointed. While a few early-morning beach combers were enjoying the sites of the coast when we arrived, all were respectful and willing to share the majesty of the Peter Iredale.
It is surprising how large the ship is up close. What you see above ground is only the bow. The rest of the remains are buried in the sand. We traced the foundational remnants as best we could and then snapped some pictures before allowing the remains to rest in peace, awaiting the next visitors.
After all, the sun was rising high in the sky and there were more things to do in Astoria before the morning ended.
The Road to Astoria Column
The town of Astoria, Oregon lies in a great paw of land cradled by the mouth of the Columbia River and the Oregon Coast. Steep neighborhood streets are reminiscent of San Francisco as is the colorful architecture, making it a great place to explore by car or foot.
We were able to experience the festive and quirky nature of the city as we traveled to Astoria Column, a monument to American exploration and innovation. The Astoria Column is the last of 12 historical markers commemorating the country’s westward expansion. Initially planned as a simple flagpole supporting an oversized American flag, the project took on new life thanks to architect Electus Litchfield.
Litchfield had heard of an innovative artist name Attilio Pusterla who was experienced in sgraffito painting, an etching technique. Pusterla’s work can be found in the New York County courthouse depicting allegorical representations of concepts such as truth and security. A particularly impressive piece decorates the 200-foot circumference rotunda.
The plan to erect a major monument was the brainchild of railroad tycoon, Ralph Budd. He and Litchfield, in conjunction with Pusterla, created the 125-foot tall column at the summit of the 600-foot elevation of Coxcomb Hill within the city.
Taking Flight from the Astoria Column
One of the more peculiar things to do in Astoria involves climbing to the top of Astoria column and taking flight.
Fortunately, this activity didn’t require us to physically defy gravity as the experience of leaving terra firma via the column’s ever-winding staircase proved to be scintillating enough. With only one railing on the wall side of the staircase, the ascent was treacherous and tricky. Several times, I found myself clinging to a step above me to keep my balance while passing those coming down on the rail side.
Gaining access to the narrow viewing ledge was another near-death (or at least injury) experience. Be warned in advance to mind the opening as you near the top. The door opens inward over a narrow landing, and you could easily be knocked backward if you reach the doorway at the same time someone from outside is coming back in.
Astoria Column has a curious tradition. According to the women who run the gift shop, visitors to the column had once developed a strange penchant for throwing things off the top. Since this habit often resulted in injuries to those on the ground, not to mention a mess of litter, someone along the way came up with the the idea of launching balsa wood planes.
The planes are light in weight, not likely to hurt anyone, and decompose quickly, making them environmentally friendly.
The record flight of an Astoria Column balsa plane is rumored to be 6 miles. We were lucky to make six feet in vertical flight before the plane nose-dived to the ground. Others had more skill, achieving pretty spiral circles of flight before the craft wafted gracefully to the ground. Our attempts to launch the planes were hampered by the large crowd upon the viewing deck that Sunday morning—you need a space at the rail to be successful—and the wind currents.
Balsa planes are sold for $1 apiece in the gift shop, but part of finding things to do in Astoria is being resourceful. Enact your own salvage mission and you can augment your purchase with specimens that have survived the flight from Astoria column.
Even if you aren’t interested in flying a balsa-wood plane, the trek to the top of Astoria Column is worth the trip. If you want to take your time viewing the far-off expanse of ocean and mountains, as well as the nearer Columbia River, consider a week-day trip. On a sunny Sunday in February, it was crowded on the narrow viewing platform that surrounds the column.
Saying Goodbye to Astoria
We’d hardly scratched the surface of things to do in Astoria when the noon hour struck. I’d been warned the night before that we would need to leave by early afternoon if the male members of our party were going to complete a construction project hatched during the trip up the coast.
Unfortunately, that meant skipping out on our exploration of Cannon Beach and Hug Point as well as many other things to do in Astoria.
So, we grabbed a quick lunch on the wharf at Smoked Bones Barbecue. All meats are hand-smoked and quite delicious. We tried a sampling of everything and split it four ways. This left us with plenty to take home, so portions are ample as well.
After swallowing the last tasty morsel, it was suddenly time to say goodbye to Astoria. We picked up Highway 202 out of town and started the trek back to Corvallis.
Like most of Oregon, this journey deserves its own dedicated exploration, as it crosses through varied habitats, from ocean to mountain and stream. We stumbled quite unexpectedly upon the Jewell Meadows State Wildlife Refuge, where hundreds of elk were spending the winter. It made us eager to see what else the area, including the Clatsop State Forest and Saddle Mountain State Natural Area, might have in store.
For those of you looking for more things to do in Astoria, don’t worry. We’ll be back.
EXPLORE WITH US
